Ann Demeulemeester 2001SS Skirt A jacket from Comme des

A jacket from Comme des Garçons

gilt chain detailing and interlocking double-C were the house's foregrounded codes

A dress from Yohji Yamamoto's Autumn/Winter 1997 collection

Multicoloured fringed braid runs down the opening and around the hem

when the house's vocabulary of architectural tailoring and neutral palettes was established

Ann Demeulemeester 2001SS Skirt A jacket from Comme desA Spring Summer 2001 skirt from Ann Demeulemeester, designed by the founder during the house's peak period. By this point the label's signatures were fully formed: asymmetric cuts, draped fabric, leather harnessing, and a monochrome palette with occasional ivory or oxblood. The work remained Ann Demeulemeester's own throughout these seasons.